Ah, beautiful Koufonisia. Tucked away between tourist hotspots such as Mykonos and Santorini, the group of small islands is an ideal place to rest, relax, and beach. Koufonisia/Koufonissi is a group of three islands but the only populated one is Pano Koufonisia, which is only accesible by ferry. Said ferries are always late, but it somewhat adds to the charm of the small island. Schedules are loose and relaxed and whatever happens…will only happen when it feels like it.
We arrived three hours after our scheduled arrival time. As we walked onto the port, we found ourselves surrounded by shuttles sent by various hotels and airbnb owners chilling as they waited for their guests.
We stayed at Koufonisia Hotel and, much as I dislike critisizing others, this hotel was a letdown to say the least. They pride themselves on being ‘the only 4-star hotel in the cyclades’ but the service we received was not that of a 4-star hotel. The room was (very) average and the breakfast (included) was not great. The food wasn’t fresh, there was a very small selection an it was the same thing every day. Coffee was not included with the breakfast so we had to pay extra. To make things even worse, they failed to mention this before we ordered. In fact, it was only as we were getting ready to leave that a staff member came over with the tab, despite claiming that their breakfast was ‘all-inclusive’.
Long story short, I would recommend an airbnb around the same area, or even another hotel along the beach. We saw a couple that had an amazing sea-view that looked like much better options.
What to do in Koufonisia
After this preamble, one might wonder: What is there to do in Koufonisia?
Koufonisia, we found, was ideal for a two/three day trip. The beaches were beautiful and relatively uncrowded compared to other more touristy regions of Greece. We rented a bike for our second day and biked around the island. Our hotel was near the port and while I do believe it best to stay around that location, I would definitely going to see Pori Beach (northeast). The island is small enough that you can see most of it by bike in a single day. We went up the western side where there are pebbly and less crowded beaches. It was an ideal place to stop and rest and bathe. There are many hidden alcoves along the western cost of Koufinisia and the views crossing the islands are stunning.
Renting a bike in Koufonisia
The bikes range from 6 to 9 euros depending on if you want a simple town bike or a mountain bike. Trust me, splurge and get the mountain bike — the 3 extra euros are way worth it. As I was struggling to climb up a hill with a shit bike and only one working gear, I honestly hated myself for not having gotten a mountain bike so trust me, you won’t miss the 3 euros compared to how much you’d hate yourself later for not going with the better option.
It’s best to arrive at Pori Beach around noon or early in the afternoon because the wind can pick up suddenly and strongly in mid to late afternoon. I’d also recommend leaving early and giving yourself enough time to jump in the sea and explore a bit without worrying about how much time you’re taking. Pori beach is one of the best places to eat lunch and walk along the beach. As you can see from the pictures, the entire island is unbelievably photogenic.
Where to eat in Koufonisia
The island was quite a bit more expensive to other Greek cities because of how small and sparse it is. The increase in prices mostly show through the small shops, as well as some restaurants. It is however still entirely possible to eat and drink without ruining yourself. Restaurants got more expensive and fancier toward the heart of the old town.
For lunch, I would recommend a tiny hole-in-the-wall gyros stand called Souvlaki Sti Strofi. It was quite possibly the best value for money we got in Greece. It’s located within the winding streets of the old town. The souvlaki itself was delicious and fillin, while the staff were friendly and service was efficient and fast. Honestly, best place to stop by if you’re craving a snack or want a quick meal.
Another lunch suggestion would be Neo Remezzo for its seafood. They serve the catch of the day. The fish was so flaky it all but melted on my tongue. There are quite a few restaurants overlooking the sea that are open for lunch. Another place I enjoyed was Fos Fanari. Their service was also fast and efficient and if you’re not yet tired of Feta and Gyros, I highly recommend them as well.
If you find yourself in Pori Beach at noon on, say, a bike tour of the island, the place to grab a quick meal with a lovely view of the sea, is Kalofego. Prices are a bit higher, but you really don’t have much of a choice and the food is as good as anywhere else on the island.
For dinner, I highly, highly, recommend Mikres Cyclades. It was without a shadow of a doubt, the meal of which the memory I will treasure for a long, long time. Mikres Cyclades is a gastronomic restaurant so the prices were higher than the other places we ate at but I can honestly say that it was worth it. We ordered a platter of hot appetizers, a platter of cold appetizers, a main dish each, and a bottle of nice wine and it all came out to 80 euros.
To be honest, though, we were both pretty stuffed after the two rounds of appetizers, which were undoubtedly the best part. My favorite part of eating out is being able to taste a variety of different foods, which is one reason why I LOVE appetizers and starting with small amuse-bouches. I regret not having waited until after the appetizers to order my main course. I would definitely have ordered something lighter than the tuna steak I chose at the beginning.
Koufonisia moves at a much slower pace than the tourist hotspots of Greece so it’s really a great place to stay if you’re just looking for a relaxing romantic beach holiday without stressing about fighting for a good spot on the beach. There’s not much else to do on this tiny island apart from eating fresh seafood and lounging by the pool and beach, admiring the magnificent scenery.
If you’re into that kind of thing, Koufonissi will be wonderful. While I love beach holidays as much as the next person, I do like to stay active and explore and go on as many adventures as possible on vacation, which is why two nights was a perfect amount of time for us to stay in Koufonissi.